Witnessing a culture's heartbeat
Why open markets should be on every traveler's itinerary.
NOTE: There will not be a post next week as I’m traveling. We’ll return on March 27.
Whether traveling near or far, taking time to stroll through the aisles and stalls of a local market can provide a much-needed mental break from checking off your tourist bucket list.
Amongst the raw energy, visiting local markets while traveling allows you to rub elbows with farmers, sample regional specialties you didn’t know existed, and discover creative artisans. But the big kahuna bonus of open markets is immersing yourself in the culture, watching locals going about their ordinary day — something you won’t find at landmark sites.
Once, when pet sitting in Liège, Belgium, I hit the famous La Batte Market, where vendors melodically barked across the crowd, announcing the freshest peaches, roast chickens, and everyday items such as fabric, brooms, and knife sharpening. Although only 9:30 AM, the market was a buzz with nannas and chefs, young mothers corralling children, music, and old friends sipping espresso next to the Meuse River.
My mission? Find new culinary ingredients to experiment with. I chatted with Cimmon, a young vendor proudly selling air-dried sausages (three please), purchased local cheeses, artisan soap I wish I had bought more of, and nibbled on, yet, another Liège waffle. Like many markets, there were hoochie mama bras, cheap sunglasses and t-shirts, along with a mix of people and languages. It was Belgian life at its best. I was in heaven. And despite the crowds, there was a rhythm and flow.
Shania Twain's “Man! I Feel Like A Woman” blared from a stall selling electronics — its American country twang as out of place as the Riptide Blue Corvette that slowly glided along a neighboring street; complete with mid-life crisis man behind the wheel. Every time I gently squeeze the French lavender sachet I purchased that day and breathe in its gentle scent, I’m transported back to La Batte.
When you visit a mercado or bazaar, keep these tips in mind:
When you arrive, hang back a little to get a sense of where the locals are buying, get your bearings and snap a few discreet pics.
Markets are perfect for assembling picnic or hotel munchies — local bread, fruits, cheese, cured meats, pastries, and real yogurt beat the dreaded breakfast buffet.
Bring a shopping bag or a simple day pack.
Carry small bills. Don’t be the traveler trying to pay for a baguette with a €20 note.
Secure your money. I wear a small, essentials only, cross body bag that zips.
Be polite, even a little apologetic at the language barrier. Show gratitude.
Be aware of how busy a merchant may be. I seek out a few not-so-busy merchants to chat about their wares, history, family farm, or meet their children, peeking out from behind a table. If they are busy, buy and move on.
Be aware of your surroundings, money, and purchases. Damn pick-pocketers.
If staying in one place for a while, returning to the same market builds relationships — often despite language barriers. In Nice, France, I admired a fishmonger’s daily catch. A few days later, after my ritual breakfast of espresso, warm croissant, and glace au chocolat, I wandered back through the market. He waved me over, pulling out a fish he’d set aside for me. Of course, I bought it. Later, standing at my Airbnb’s kitchen counter, knife in my left hand and oven hot, I murmured to my scaly friend, “I don’t know what you are, but I’m going to cook you and eat you.” Against a Mediterranean sunset, I did. It was a delicious memory I’ll never forget.
Not comfortable wandering through a market on your own, book a tour. Get Your Guide offers many open market tours that are affordable, engaging, and may introduce you to an experience you might otherwise pass by. Check it out for domestic and international tours. Thank you for your support.
Open markets can also be unnerving. Touring Suzhou, China, the “Venice of the East” with a tour guide provided some peace of mind, especially with the cultural differences of how tonight's dinner is alive in a cage, slithering in a bucket, or wriggling in a tank. Not for the faint hearted. Yet, I’m grateful for the experience.
Food vendors and artisans love sharing their, often multi-generational, craft. They are the salt of the earth and appreciate your respect and interest. Being mindful of the above bullet point list, inquire about their traditional weaving, learn how they use ancient methods that have largely been replaced with technology. At one market, I scored delicate macramé earrings. Watching the artist intricately twist and knot thread (yes, thread) made my brain explode. Every time I wear them, I will recall our short interaction.
And don’t even get me started on the treasure troves in Athens, Santiago, Paris, Fiji, Jerusalem, and yes, Nevada, Chicago, and every small town in between where I have found incredible linens, antiques, carved wood, vintage hats and spices. Unapologetically, I ditch clothing and toiletries to create valuable suitcase real estate for such trinkets.
In Portugal, I shop at the local mercado with my 2-wheeled trolley, Fernanda, buying Rosemary honey in terracotta pots, mustering courage to try unknown shellfish, and failing spectacularly at Portuguese. Last week, school girls were selling desserts to raise money for a dance competition. Of course, I had to purchase a slice of dense chocolate cake. Hey, the U.S. has Girl Scouts, Portugal has dance troupes.
TIP: Don’t limit market visits to travel — make them local day trips. Venture out to nearby cities and towns to experience an artist selling blown glass, pottery (like my talented niece does in Oregon), small-batch distilleries (hello, Minden, Nevada), or local cheeses and heirloom produce. Consider this a day to breathe and discover. I guarantee you’ll be reminiscing about your day for months to come; and it’s so easy to do.
Whenever I visit the Bay area, California, a girl’s morning at the Brentwood farmers’ market is a tradition. We queue for picked-that-morning Three Nuns corn, knowing dinner will include at least two ears (each). There’s always a boutique to browse and food trucks serving local and delish chow. Plus, we catch up on family gossip over Churros and Kabobs.
TIP: Try to find a quiet spot where you can sit down and just people watch. Here, you can observe how locals dress, eat, relate to each other, and you may pick up a cuss word or two. Smile, say hello in the local language, and be ready to laugh at your exaggerated gestures while communicating.
Beyond castles, museums, and bucket-list sites, make time to wander local markets. It’s in these aisles and stalls — where vendors shout their wares, offer samples of regional foods found nowhere else, and locals go about their day — that the true heartbeat of a place is found.
Local or long distance, no matter where I travel, I don’t truly feel like I’ve experienced a culture until I’ve discovered its local markets. And really, isn’t discovery why we travel?