Tales of a salmon-lugging immigrant!

What A76, a fishmonger, and a neglected head taught me about living my best expat life.

Like many European countries, Portugal has many small ma and pa grocery stores and open markets (mercados). These neighborhood shops cram everything from frozen octopus and beer to fresh produce, laundry soap, batteries, and dusty bottles of hand lotion older than your dog into narrow aisles. Here, you may have to step over boxes and wait patiently for …